Thursday, first day of summer. Venice’s main areas of interest are overcrowded; public water buses and taxis obstruct the Canal Grande, while gondolas throng the minor waterways; restaurants and fast food chains around Piazza San Marco are literally assaulted, while the usual, never-ending line stands at the Basilica’s entrance. A Venice connoisseur wouldn’t wait a minute to escape this magnificent hell on earth, taking refuge into the minor islands or in the quiet Giudecca,

Crazily enough, all of a sudden it’s summer and after ice, rain and hailstorms, we look just like butterflies attempting to get out of their cocoons: wrinkled, clumsy and a little shy. In order to stretch out the wings, what’s better than a first float on the marvellous lagoon garden of Sant’Erasmo island? Lying north of the Lido and north east of Venice, this large piece of land for centuries has been supplying Venetians with any kind of fruits and vegetables. On the island,

It was 1975, the year when Vietnam war finally came to an end and Bill Gates founded Microsoft. Saverio Pastor, who nowadays is one of the last oar makers - remèri in Venetian dialect, at that time was just a high-school teenager looking for an occupation during summer time. Born and raised in Venice, he was deeply fascinated by Venetian language and used to buzz around the workshop of master Bepi Carli, who descended from an important shipwright family and spoke a rich, arch

Imagine a secluded spot out of the hustle and bustle of the city, a gracious garden surrounded by climbing wisteria and small orange trees and a cozy room where to enjoy a cup of tea in the chilly winter days. After a long walk through the narrow, crowded alleys of Venice, a place like this might sound like a mirage… Still, it really exists! Located in Calle Lunga de San Barnaba, Fujiyama tea room is immersed in a neighborhood that was able to preserve its genuine character a

Lying on the spurs of a hill range, right in the heart of a Collio natural reserve, Roncada estate used to be owned by Austrian princes. Madi Cattaruzzi, the young woman who nowadays runs the winery business, describes the place as a green island surrounded by woods, fruit trees and grain cultivations. In other words, a pristine paradise where, along with other colleagues - women and young as much as she is - Madi continues the work her grandfather started when he bought the

Graceful and flexible as a leaf of grass, light and evanescent as a floating bubble (he loves this similarity!), Gualtiero Salbego set foot in Venice, for the first time ever, in 1998, and since then he never left. At that time he was 26, and probably too shy to imagine his brilliant future as one of the finest artists in town. Born and raised in a small village of Veneto countryside, Gualtiero lived in a family that considered job as a primary source and sent him to work rig

Whoever has been here, talks about Filippi’s winery as a special, out of time place: apparently as much as his owner, an unconventional entrepreneur who inherited his historic family’s properties in the Colli Scaligeri and started to produce his very own wine in 1992. Often depicted as a lone wolf, Filippo Filippi is committed to producing a wine that fully reflects Soave’s terroir, rather than the DOC Soave. Inspired by Castelcerino’s beautiful landscape, he strives to make

Located between the very ancient church of San Giacometto and the historic Campo dell’Erbaria, this small bar and restaurant was once part of the oldest Venetian core, also known as main trading point between East and Europe. As a matter of fact, Naranzaria takes its name from the historical citrus market that used to flourish in this area. The current management, a result of cooperation between historic owner Conte Brandino Brandolini d’Adda, architect Umberto La Caprara and

When you are born to a Valpolicella vintners’ family and you spent your entire boyhood playing in the vineyards and following closely your ancestors’ hard work, then you know for sure that winemaking job is a matter of genuine passion and utmost devotion. And probably, if you’ve chosen this career, you will excel in it. This is what happened to Pietro Zardini, a young oenologist who, after a degree in Agriculture and a viticulture specialization, started to work for one of th

It is visiting a winery such as Vini Prà that you can realize how much young workforce is involved into wine industry around Soave and Valpolicella regions – and Veneto in general! Starting from the guide, who kindly introduced us to the company’s history, to end with the modern office, adjacent to the winery and populated by a team of young, enthusiastic people, you really can tell that everything here is a projection into the future. Counting on this forceful team and follo

Overlooking a minor canal in a peaceful area of Venice, Adriatico Mar, as the name itself suggests, is inspired directly by the sea that, in centuries, represented a major source of wealth for Venice and all the coastal regions, from the Balkan to the Italian shores. Certainly Francesco had this in mind when, a few years ago and with the help of some friends, decided to open this cozy bacaro in Dorsoduro. As a matter of fact, the place itself looks like a lighthouse, where co

It’s a muggy morning of summer: alleys and campi are crowded with tourists, we hardly proceed in the clamour of a multitude sprawling in every direction and speaking languages from all over the world. The sun is at its highest when we reach Mariangela’s chocolate shop, and all of a sudden it’s a refreshment and a joy, pleasing both eyes and palate. Placed with grace on multiple shelves there’s a surprising variety of titbits: jars of any shapes contain pralines, dragees and

Our love for the most authentic wineries brings us right into the heart of Valpolicella, where Monte dall'Ora is growing an organic vineyard in total accordance with the balance of nature and its biodiversity. Nestled in a natural amphitheatre and named after the famous wind Ora del Garda, this small winery was founded in 1995 by a family who practices the spontaneous fermentation and deeply respects the aging of wines. Their products, dynamic and scented, are proof of a perf

Locanda Rosa Rosae, in the lush Veneto countryside, is a 6th-century watermill that has been restored by a couple of fine architects who must have worked with just one word in mind: poetry. The shabby chic interiors, warm and cozy (especially by candlelight!), were designed with attention to the last detail. Their menu is typical, with an excellent selection of appetizers, cheeses and desserts. Despite the wine is not the best, the place is so special that you'll instantly wa

Much More than an Antique Bookstore When I first scheduled an appointment at Lineadacqua antique bookstore, I was expecting to face an austere, donnish, old bookworm hidden behind piles of untouchable tomes. Surprisingly enough, I was warmly greeted by a young man, whose elegant bookstore doesn’t boast only a vast collection of precious volumes, but also displays a number of ancient and modern artworks, such as stunning paintings, refined sculptures, literary journals and nic